Friday, August 23, 2013

Eastward the Course of Empire Makes Its Way (Eventually)

[All characters appearing in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.]

I'm carrying three ducks, four porcupines, a silver-coated salad spinner, and a foldable rolling wooden bar fully on my back in my backpack for my mother because neither of us are the least bit interested in checking our luggage. The seven hand-crafted Chilean-made stone wild animals weigh a combined 63 kg and consume easily 3 cubic meters of physical space suspended between my butt and just above the top of my head. The salad spinner, a vintage Philippe Starck-designed collector's item likely stolen from the post-modern kitchen collection (second level) at the Albright-Knox Art Gallery in Buffalo, is especially bothersome not so much because of its weight -- which is unprecedented in itself -- but because the art nouveau design is such that the object's "feet", if you will, protrude from the containing cardboard box and dig painfully into my intertransversarii muscle which -- normally -- facilitates movement between the individual vertebrae but that right now simply encourages pain. The folding bar is a whole other story that just truly isn't worth describing in any detail right now save for a rather comical misunderstanding on my mother's part between folding bicycles and folding table bars of which one stores alcohol, the latter, I mean.

The aforementioned items (which leave me no room for any personal items such as, say, a toothbrush, my chewing tobacco, my Stephenie Meyer-signed vampire calligraphy set, or a change of underwear) are gifts for my older sister and by implication her husband, my brother-in-law. We are visiting them in Foggia, which is a medium-sized city in Italy's south-east wasteland where my brother-in-law has been selling his skills, as they say, in the burgeoning technology sector at Z_____ Corporation. He's recently been let go however (the brother-in-law) following a bizarre illegal pancake-whisky incident that does not surprise me in the least of leasts.

We arrive at the train station in Foggia with only partial -- yet permanent -- damage to my infra-spinatus and levator scapulae, and -- worst of all, which I will only learn the extent of in the years to come -- will leave me horribly kyphotic and hence ineligible for a walk-on role in a certain, well, I don't want to get into that right now... We are greeted by my sister and sister's husband. I try to extrude a North American familial greeting embrace to show my joy at her (but definitely not his) site but am overpowered by the overweight and hugely awkward backpack. It's good to see my sister nonetheless, and I put on my show for her somewhat creepy husband. "Hi Pemulis!", I bemoan in a way that appears to come out as a beaming how-do-you-do.

Following a 37-hour transatlantic flight and a 3-hour train ride from Rome I am emotionally -- but involuntarily, mind you -- incapable of not full on requiring some non-negligible time away from my mother for at least a few hours. Though he makes me feel highly uneasy -- disgusting, really -- I agree to accompany Pemulis and my sister to the local English Pub to meet some of their friends. The bar is dirty by even my standards. I refuse beer out of both principle and hygiene-related apprehension of a presentimental nature. I meet Armenians, Pakistanis, Lithuanians, Americans. But strangely few Italian people. I scoff to myself (silently, inwardly) that you need social skills to meet the locals; this international ragtag group of miscreants are made for each other and have clearly sought each other's company out of a pure gut-bred need where each denied to him/herself initially that they would sink this low but ultimately was forced to come around. Each one is stranger than the next complete with horrid disfigurements that make Pemulis look right at home. Whereas typically you surround someone with grotesqueness and they start to look better -- you say hey! at least Suzy isn't THAT bad -- somehow this amalgam of fright builds malformation upon miscreation and you actually begin to see things that probably should have but didn't until now give you a severe case of the howling fantods. These are not the type of people you would ever want to leave alone with your sister (woops!). I plead to my sister with my eyes to for god's sake get us out of here. She thankfully obliges and as I see my mother peacefully sleeping on an IKEA fold-out mattress I am flooded with guilt; I hug her tightly until the morning sun arrives. She brings me a coffee and says Good Morning! I role my eyes and put in my iPhone earbuds. Don't these things go any louder, I wonder?

This morning I have gained some perspective. Life is about trade-offs, balances, experiences, and of course all vampire-related media/paraphernalia: books, films, video-games, comic books, interactive augmented-reality roll playing adventures, branded toys and articles such as lunchboxes, thermoses, and backpacks (that hold enormous amounts of articles, by the way), posters, playing cards, stationary, etc. And so when creepy brother-in-law offers to take me for a bike ride in the mountains, while my first reaction is on the flight side of Walter Bradford Cannon's fight-or-flight, I weigh the experience of biking through dramatic scenery hundreds and sometimes thousands of metres above sea-level with his inane comments and strange compulsion to want to discuss "young person" stuff with me (does he not realize he's something north of ten years older than me and our generation [yes, it is most certainly an entirely different generation] has no idea what a DiscMan is and furthermore could you please stop accepting my friends' friend requests on Facebook because they're MY friends, not YOUR friends, and that just adds to your creepiness you big weirdo; oh and don't even get me started on the atonal, keyless, out of- really anything related to music in any way, shape, or form - incessant singing that never, really just never ever, ends) and I decide "what the hey" and go for it. Good decision in the end because this place is a bike-rider's paradise.

We watch a Mordecai Richler book-inspired film spread over two non-successive nights. I feign boredom and pretend to be fully and completely absorbed in my new vampire ebook on my Amazon (TM) Kindle (TM) but am in fact heavily engrossed -- captivated, even -- in/by the film. My brother-in-law takes great pain to point out the inaccuracies with respect to the book (which I'm convinced he does simply to prove that he's read the book and I find ungodly annoying, much like most everything that dimwit does) on which it's based such as the fact that they replaced Toronto with New York and Paris with Rome; but no one really cares about that sort of change in my opinion.

We visit the Corno Grande in the Appennino Meridionale mountain range to hike. BiL makes 70-year-old corny joke again and I turn the music up even more in my iPod. To prove how tough he is (note: not at all) BiL swims in a glacier-fed lake that we get to in the mountains. Unfortunately for him (but making my day for me) he is horribly (further) disfigured when an itinerant cold-water octopus mistakes his face for a mate and we spend the rest of the afternoon in an Italian emergency ward. I move on to The Apprenticeship of Bella Swan Volume XIV on my Kindle (TM) and turn my iPod volume up beyond its theoretical factory-set maximum. Unfortunately for me (but probably making his day) the damage is less than originally predicted by Italian doctors and he -- extremely unfortunately -- will not live out the remainder of his days with an octopus tentacle dangling from his chin (as was also originally prognosticated by Dr. Frederico Belluci, Emma.Dolce.).

Hours that seem to morph into days that somehow melt beneath me into the worn scratched wooden floor pass through us as we futilely attempt to plan a trip for us four (the octopus incident has incited a panic-fueled desire to flea this part of the country). We can't decide whether we should rent a car or go to the Adriatic on the east coast or the Mediterranean on the west. When we finally do make a decision it's been so long that the possibility has already vanished either due to no longer extent car-renting possibility or accommodation. The tension in the room is so thick that it really does feel like I'm moving my limbs while underwater and I might even pull out the one could cut it like butter cliché but I think I'll save that for another time. My headache returns. It's a hard, focused pain. Like one of those extra-strong blue laser pointers burning through a highly focused point on a slab of thin bone resting gingerly at the apex of my skull that sends bone splinters flying in all directions only to be rebounded against other primary pain receptors that seem to have been placed just-so by Satan himself and in turn causing additional surrounding damage. The headache causes a not-at-all pleasant claustrophobic feeling that makes me feel as if I'm drowning in a fiery, yet still watery, abyss. This, combined with the aforementioned air thickness due to human-induced psychotropical room-tension begins to play serious tricks on my brain about the reality of this whole situation: am I really relatively safe (minus Pemulis's relative proximity) in a first-floor apartment? Or am I truly drowning and this is what happens in the final moments of life as your brain struggles to comprehend its demise? I struggle to find my white earbuds and listen to Pink, or even Hedley, to try to push the cranial pain out but I feel almost drunk: my brain-muscle signals are confused and I stumblingly reach for my iPhone just as I receive a text; I imagine it must be what Bella feels when she is finally climaxingly bit in her oh-so-svelt neck by Edward the dreamy Vampire (TM) to join the world of the immortal (oh to be Bella...). The Twilight-themed text-tone on my phone is soothing, and when I see that the message is from the Serendipity Hall organizers who want to know in which time slot I'll be planning my volunteer hours this fall, I suddenly feel relief. The air begins to thin, my breathing returns to normal, and the pain in my head subsides. Someone suggests we just take the train to Rome (where we're flying out of anyways) and we all say sure! Great idea!

Rome is Rome. There are Americans and we hope to do the uje: Castel Sant'Angelo, the Coliseum, the Vatican. Pemulis thinks he's pretty cool from having lived here in something like the 90's but I question whether this city even existed that long ago. He acts like he knows where everything is; what a poser. BiL is getting on my nerves and if he responds to one of my suggestions to visit ZZZ with "I've already done ZZZ" I swear I'll murder him right here right now and not in an unproud fashion. Mother asks for pictures to be taken by me but won't actually take them herself. I solder the motherboard of my iPhone back together following some technical transmogrifications and realize that I've succeeded in again allowing it to pump out even more watts [ed: amps?] and turn my music up that little extra bit which, thankfully, is exactly what was required at this particular moment in the universes's existence.

Genius over here (I better just be real full-on explicit here and point out freely and clearly in all soberness and complete honesty that I use that in the most sarcastic form possible) has got us lost on the way to some book shop he wants me to visit. I'm sure it's some kind of attempt to impress me with his supposed quasi-intellectual put-on disgusting -- and frankly kind of insulting -- display of world knowledge when it comes to "Rome Kitsch" and really, let me ask, who would come all the way to Italy to visit an English-language bookstore in the first place? But I digress. The point is that we're now lost though not nearly as lost as the seven hundred Americans that have asked me for directions to the closest ice cream stand in the last thirty six minutes seem to be. I pull out a map and decide to take charge. But this city is not laid out following North American standards, no siree-Bob. Just trying to find the route that we've taken so far from our admittedly hip rented apartment is like staring at a bowl of tagliatelle and mentally unfurling each sticky, twisted, glistening strand.  Pemmy (as me and my brother call him behind his back. In fact -- quick digression -- due to the hilarious similarity between our secret nickname for him and the name of Inspector Gadget's niece Penny we tend to download his Facebook pictures and draw a blonde wig on to his bald head and laugh and giggle like school girls; oh wait, another digression: how does one lose all his hair by the age of 30? What a shitty lottery ticket my sister ended up drawing with that one. But I can look at this self-interestedly. Now I'm not getting married until I'm at least 50; that way, if he hasn't lost his hair by then, he'll probably be keeping it) eventually takes over and we find the restaurant which ends up being not bad. But that just makes things even worse because he then gets that god-awful self-congratulatory smug dumb-looking smile that tries to say "look how smart I am" but ends up really just conveying "look how much of a creepy bald asshole I am!".

And the worst of all are his idiot "look at me!" wannabe avant-gard meta-fiction blog posts, if you can even call them that, the blog posts, I mean. Have you ever read such redundant self-congratulatory, self-aggrandizing, clichéd trite bullshit in your entire life? Newsflash to Pemulis: you're about as original as an Instagramed plane wing that's gone through low-fi and been tilted 20 degrees to the horizontal, and definitely less clever. And you're no DFW! In fact, you're not even a Perez Hilton [ed: burn!]. God, you know these attention-seeking hypocritical aspirational intellectuals with Ph.D.'s from fourth-level schools in a useless subject so they can force others to address them as "Doctor" who measure themselves by the books on their shelves -- and who only read said books so they can put them on said shelves so other social-climbing vapid airheads who contribute nothing to society like themselves can see how anti-stupid they are when they only choose said books because someone told them that those are the books they have to read to impress same and then they look down on actual literature that in fact is full-on enjoyable which in itself is proof that Stephenie Meyer is a true genius because these arrogant fucks have to spend all their time breaking her down because her production [in a literary sense] is just eons, metaphorically speaking, above anything ever written by some effeminate French socialite named following a wine-drenched ass-kissing aristocratic get-together where his dumbshit parents thought the way to say Cheers used by their German equally effeminate socialite ass-kissing aristocratic guests when they clinked their crystal diamond-infused champagne flutes together would result in a good name [ed: but Proust is his last name] -- are just the worst, in my personal opinion. But then, despite how bad they are, I guess he's not as bad as the fictional doctor House lovers in my former undergraduate program who walk around with black Nike's ordered directly from the Fox syndicated-program's online product guide in jeans too small to fit their fat asses and who gained said fat asses from staying up all night eating Creatine bars to stay awake through their umpeenth Doctor House marathon. To just kind of clear up that final point above there, those people are truly the worst.

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Été 2013

Été 2013. It was a long time coming what with all the raining and cold weather and then some more raining and still the cold weather but the Office of Weather XXXXXXX has tried to make up for the cold and wet spring with summer days of 38+ degree heat and scorching sun sapping all of our wills to live. We've been able to do our best to escape from said heat by fleeing to the temperate climates of the South and in other cases have failed miserably to cool down by attempting to flee to local lakes or rivers only to find some impediment to our planned cooling regimens, often times comically; so comically and cliché, in fact, that you may be led to believe that in recounting these stories that they were lifted from the scripts of the most shallow bottom-feeding vapid wastes of space-and-time sitcoms that were bought and paid for by our consuming whatever edible oil products were presented between the 7 or 8 minutes of mindless banter between the insupportable cast members of F*R*I*E*N*D*S. No matter. In Germany everything's cold (the weather, the people I'm told, but also the beer [it's not England]) and so we might as well take advantage of this while we can. Here is a photo essay of summer 2013 so far that has been principally designed and presented for Tom Darling as he is the spiritual founder of this blog. It does not encompass the entire summer because I've already put the Barcelona pictures on here and some other stuff too (I guess the marathon counts as the summer but at that time it was still cold. All of these pictures were taken in absolutely oppressing heat).

Early July 2013. Nice. The Jazz Festival (since 1948!)


We saw (among others) Ben Harper and Charlie Musselwhite. What a show. These dudes know how to play.



Below he is holding his microphone but -- I can't remember if it was the whole song or just a verse of it but either way.. -- for the final song he did this a capella thing without a microphone even and it was just simply amazing. We were right up front too which just made it all the more awesome. You just don't get that with the David Guetta concerts (that we didn't attend) because if he loses power then there is no longer any music. You also don't get that with, let's say, Lady Gaga because if you take away the microphone then there's no computer to put her voice through.


Of course to make it a standard vacation for us (we already sent the standard "Sandi sitting at a table with a Campari" vacation picture) we have to go to the beach and ride some bikes there so here's exactly doing exactly said thing.


Jesse is practicing either his dance to go along with the Red Hot Chili Peppers song "It's my Aerooooplane" (he likes pleasure spiked with pain!) or maybe practicing surfing for later on (the waves weren't big enough though) or maybe I just caught him in the act of falling to his death and he was futilely attempting to balance himself and save his life.


Oh, no.. It wasn't that last one because here he is below alive and well at the Nice Jazz Festival waiting for Ben Harper to start. And then below there he is drinking a big old concert brew with Sandi as well and the stage and palm trees in the background. That is a mean picture; someone with skills must have taken it I'm wagering.



Later on during the same visit (of Jesse, I mean) we visited Voiron where the monks make the delicious Chartreuse Liqueur. There are some pretty girls that take you on a tour that really helps make the trip to Voiron worth your while but we got totally ripped off this time (yes we've been here before) and our pretty Chartreuse girl tour guide was in fact a dude. So, while the first time Sandi and I visited Voiron last year it was more of what you see to the left below; this time it was something like on the right.


But, even with the male tour guide, it was still fun especially watching the big budget 3D movie of how the Chartreuse monks started making Chartreuse and how they lived in the mountains and all this. Also seeing all the barrels of Chartreuse going through the aging process is pretty fun as well (as is the all-important taste test at the end). To read an interesting article about Chartreuse from the Wall Street Journal (!!), "The Intrigue of Chartreuse: French monks. Secret recipes. An otherworldly color. Belly up to a most mysterious liqueur", you can just head right on over here: The Intrigue of Chartreuse.


On Bastille Day we went to Vizille, home of the museum of the French Revolution. How fitting, right? I don't have any pictures of the Chateau de Vizille (which houses said museum) or the incredible gardens that surround it, but you can easily look those up on BING Image Search. In fact, just click here and you don't even need to type anything in: Chateau de Vizille pictures. Instead, and what you probably won't find as many pictures of, we are providing you with a view of something that provides a true window into the future. Take a look at the picture first:


If you haven't figured it out, that is a fully automated pizza making machine. You choose the size, toppings, etc. on the touch-screen, put in your bank card, wait 3 minutes, and out slides your pizza. That is some scary $%*&.

While in Voiron (Chartreuse country) I supplemented my meager wardrobe with two stylish additions: a Chartreuse T-Shirt and a Chartreuse toque (modeled below by M.C. Sablé and D.J. Testament).


Later on Bastille Day we visited the Parc Paul Mistral just across the way from our apartment (which sadly will soon no longer be our apartment) to view the insane fireworks display centered around the Tour Perret. This was one crazy fireworks display; more impressive than any I've ever seen anywhere else in my life. It lasted probably 30 minutes or so and the fireworks were (mostly) synched to classical music (I'm pretty sure that La Marseillaise was the final song, natch). But it wasn't just the length of the show, it was the extensiveness of it. The huge amount of fireworks going off all at the same time. I'm estimating the budget at at least 250,000 €. AT. LEAST. It was totally out of this world.




The next day (or maybe the day after that?) Jesse and I decided to hike up to La Bastille in Grenoble. There are some pretty amazing views on the way up and once you get to the top but instead I provide you with a picture of Jesse confusingly making his way up a spiral staircase in a tour that you go through near the beginning of the journey.


Several days (or weeks? who knows anymore..) later we were feeling the heat something fierce and had to escape to a lake. Lac Paladru is about 60km or so from Grenoble so on a Sunday morning(-ish) we took off in search of refreshing cold water. When we finally arrived, it was clear that we weren't going to get to go swimming because the few beaches that there were were completely packed/crowded and there are some places where you can climb down on to some rocks and swim from there but then we'd have to leave the bikes up by the road and that's just not a safe idea in my opinion.


So, instead, we did the next-most sensible thing and went for health-killing snacks such as Coca Cola and Café Liégois (seen below). If you're not familiar with these products, the first was originally a non-alcoholized version of French coca wine that apparently cures many diseases including morphine addiction, dyspepsia, neurasthenia, headache, and impotence. The latter is coffee, vanilla ice cream, coffee ice cream, chocolate syrup, chocolate covered coffee beans, and whip cream. Yum!


While the Lac Paladru escapade was a bit of a failure in terms of our attempts at cooling off, the next weekend we instead went towards Provence to go camping by the river (the Drôme) and do some swimming and "white water" kayaking. This was more successful because we did in fact go both swimming and kayaking but camping was a bit of an abomination because of the heat and I can pretty much never sleep while camping anyways and we didn't really go real camping because it was on a camp ground overrun by Dutch people with their ATVs and camper vans with satellite TV. You'd think that Holland has rivers of their own but apparently they all come to France because the Dutch government has protected all of their rivers and lakes so people can't visit them so they come here to ruin the French ones. Perfect.



Finally, the heat got so unbearable that there was no other choice than to just drive to Marseille. Jill and Anna arrived on Tuesday (maybe Wednesday?) and we drove down Friday. We stayed in an amazing old re-furnished apartment with something like 25-ft. tall ceilings right across from the international maritime port close to Le Panier and the Vieux Port. This was my maybe 4th time in Marseille and it sure is amazing. It made me a bit sad since I had a chance to go work at the university there starting this Fall but the logistics, let's say (it was the pay), didn't work out.

I think I took some pretty rad artistic photos:



... including this one of Sandi's food ("where are all those food pictures?" here's one)


Even though I was sick (and still am a little bit), we had fun and joined in the partying!



Anna and Sandi in the windows of our super awesome apartment.


The Ferry to Algeria right across from our apartment! But we didn't take it...


And there I am (on the right, half way down the stairs) with Marseille in the background (well, actually everywhere because we're in Marseille, but you get it...)


On Sunday we spent the day in Cassis which is really nice but I didn't take any pictures maybe out of respect for the 5000 topless women at the beach. But maybe it was because I was too lazy too.

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Grenoble

Grenoble is cool. It has lots of mountains all around it. Any street you walk down, at the end of it, there is another mountain. Once I tried counting how many mountains that you can see here but that is a very difficult game to play because you start re-counting mountains by mistake and then there is the problem of defining exactly what a mountain is versus just a peak on a mountain or a part of a mountain, etc. There are 3 mountain ranges around Grenoble (Vercors, Chartreuse, and Belledonne [the only of the three that is actually part of the Alps]).

Another cool thing about Grenoble is that it is in France and in France people (sometimes) speak French and they usually go to work late. And France has some other nice places that are easy to get to and you can fairly easily go to other countries as well such as Spain where there is Barcelona which is also really cool albeit in a very different way from the way that Grenoble is so cool. In Barcelona, for example, there is the beach and there are guys selling street beers everywhere; both cool things that Grenoble doesn't seem to have (well we have a beach at the lake and you can probably find someone to sell you a beer in the street but I guess it's just not as pervasive). But the food in Barcelona is kind of crap (why do people claim to like tapas so much? I think it's because they think it sounds classy to say that you're going for tapas even though they're never any good [the tapas or the people that say this]).

If you like heat then Grenoble is also good. It's 36 degrees celsius today and it will be that hot or hotter everyday for the foreseeable future. You can feel sporty by just sitting outside because without moving at all even at 9 in the morning you will quickly begin perspiring as you might in a colder climate after running an ultramarathon. There are some parks here that people like to sit in and relax, drink beer, smoke a lot, and play a stupid game where you tie a rope between two trees and try to walk from one side to the other like a tight-rope walker. It is pretty dumb but tons of people do it for some reason.

In one of the parks there is La Bobine which is a pretty awesome bar where they also have concerts. People also sit in the park out front of La Bobine and you can buy your beer there and then bring it out to the park (or bring your own from home or the grocery store) and sit and relax and drink your beer and smoke a lot and play the stupid rope game if you so wish. This is great because in Canada there would be a strict no leaving the bar with beer policy and probably a strict no beer in the park policy too. If there were a concert (as there was in a different park every night of the week last week) then if they wanted to serve alcohol there would be a big fenced-in area and if you tried to either bring your own drinks or leave the fenced-in area with drinks you bought there you would be given a swift kick to the head by an angry bouncer and then escorted from the premises. Here, you can bring your own drinks or you can buy them from the restaurants that set up little outside bars during the concerts and it is ten thousand times awesomer and cooler and neater (both "neat!" as in that's cool and "neat." as in tidied up; the latter applies because they set everything up quite nicely so that you'll be enticed to buy your rosé from restaurant A instead of restaurant B which isn't set up as classily).

There is even a hockey team here called Les Brûleurs de Loups but for some reason we never went to a game in the last 1.5 years. Oh well. We also have a really good rugby team I understand but we didn't go to a game for that either. For the last two years, however, we watched the annual Ireland-England St. Patrick's Day rugby match in the Irish Bar beside our house and it was pretty fun I'd say. In the same stadium where the rugby team wins all its matches there are also big stadium-like concerts (unlike the smaller concerts at La Bobine) but we didn't see The Cranberries when they came and we also didn't see David Guetta when he "played" there either (how do DJ's have concerts?).

Some other things that are good about Grenoble are the bike paths along the river (when they're not doing construction and so have to close them), the bakeries / patisseries (such as Maison Floran, for example), and the food in general is pretty good too. One thing that is really good about France (this applies to other countries such as of course Italy as well) compared to Canada is that if you ask for a coffee after a meal (or at any time for that matter) you get a real coffee not that dirty cigarette water that you would get in Canada in general and that people buy up by the bushel at their local Tim Horton's.

There are some things that Canada is much better at though such as containing a cottage (if you have one) so that you don't have to share the beach or lake or whatever with a million other annoying people and a very important thing that is bad in France and seems to generally be good in Canada is that at swimming pools in France every single person there seems to lose their common sense and becomes a raging moron set out to destroy your enjoyment by going either as slow as possible, taking up the entire lane, pushing off right before you arrive and then forcing you to wait for them or dangerously go around them because some other idiot is swimming perpendicularly to traffic and changing lanes with their eyes closed and is shocked when you run into them.

But besides those things Grenoble is pretty rad. You should check it out.